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If authenticity must define a restaurant, then how does one compete? The most recent addition to the Halifax taco scene is Tako Loko, and it goes without saying that its Mexican ownership justifies at least one authenticity point. Owner Vicky Ruiz moved to Halifax from Mexico 15 years ago with her sons Enrique and Jose Alonso, seeking asylum from death threats and violence at home. Since the move, it was always her dream to open a taco restaurant.

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The opportunity came when a space in the building she owns with partner, Victor Pournick--in the middle of the residential Hydrostone District--became vacant. With the help of Pournick and her sons, the empty unit was transformed into a shiny new restaurant space, with a large open kitchen, and walls decorated in a cheerful orange and green. Influenced by his kitchen expertise, Tako Loko is hitting all the right spots, with a menu that consists almost exclusively of tacos tortillas and guacamole, beans and rice are the only side dishes.

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The restaurant is und, offering only water a large, cool bottle served immediately on being seatedCoke and when available, a Mexican soft drink called Jarrito. Since opening in early April, the restaurant has been packed to the brim nightly, with patrons who, if the chairs are all taken, are happy to stand. The high-top tables at Tako Loko are perfect for leaning, just as you would at a Mexican taqueria.

Refreshingly, the tall tables are also devoid of annoying salsa bottles, salt-shakers and napkin totes that clutter. Another point of authenticity is the hum of conversation. Later, I discovered the reason, in part: no WiFi. A collaboration between the team at Stillwell brewery and the former chef at the Highwayman, Blair Clarke, Beverley began its life with a mysterious paper flyer with astapled to lamp posts all over Halifax and Dartmouth. With the opening of the summertime beer garden Mecca that is Stillwellon the corner of Spring Garden and South Park Street, Beverley now has a summer home, serving a wide selection of tacos.

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They are stone ground daily from heirloom Oaxacan corn, which, employing a traditional method, has been first soaked in a lime juice solution to soften and separate the grain. The big word for this is nixtamalization. The easy word: delicious. These labour-intensive tortillas are light and tasty — a great addition to the beer garden.

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They also held a of Halifax Food Truck Rallies, as the food truck scene was taking off in between and Tacos have already hit Halifax in a big way, and not just on Tuesday nights. What is authentic, and is it important? Tako Loko. More from Eat North. Daily bite: Rinaldo's new sister spot, Taco Lina's opens in Halifax. Halifax Wanderers Grounds raises the bar on stadium dining. Mexican-Canadian restaurant, Quetzal, opens in Toronto.

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